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Fine Dining -- In a Theme Park!Mythos, at Islands of Adventure, creates a new standardby Kelly MonaghanIslands of Adventure, Universal Studios' new Orlando theme park, prides itself on being the "next generation" theme park, pushing the envelope with astounding thrill rides, roller coasters, and large scale illusions. But what may surprise many people is that Islands of Adventure also boldly goes where no theme park has gone before, into the realm of top-flight gourmet dining. True, CityWalk, the entertainment and dining district just outside the gates, plays host to Emeril's, the Orlando home to TV chef Emeril Legasse's much-hyped hyper-cuisine. But once you step inside any theme park you tend to resign yourself to either hot dogs and hamburgers or the kind of "continental cuisine" that must come from the continent of Antarctica because every dish tastes as if it started out frozen. That's why Mythos is such a stunning achievement. Mythos sits by the lagoon in the Lost Continent, one of the park's five "islands." In keeping with the unspeakably ancient theme of the island, the restaurant is housed in what looks for all the world like an extinct volcano with water cascading down its weathered slopes. Step inside and it's as if you've entered a sea cavern whose sinuous walls have been carved out and smoothed by centuries of surging waves. Eerie yet soothing music, of a provenance you just can't seem to place, tinkles through the air. In the main dining room the cavern's roof vaults skyward and large opening give out onto the lagoon and a spacious outdoor seating area. Subterranean streams run between the handsome seating areas, with seats upholstered in regal purple. The walls take one the shapes of long-vanished gods and their spirit minions. The effect is only a step or two this side of awesome.
Not to worry. Chef Pamela Perkins has created an inventive menu that pays homage to the hallmarks of contemporary cuisine -- intriguing combinations of ingredients and flavors, dazzling presentations -- and still manages to taste, well, just plain yummy. She also supervised the selection of silverware, plates, glasses, and table decoration, some of which are thew work of local Florida artisans. I especially liked the penne pasta with duck sausage, a bold and hearty combination of flavors that asserted their individuality and never descended to the level of mere "sauce." The lobster tail smoked with bacon (of all things) also wins high marks. Also on offer when I visited was pan-roasted corvina, a deep sea fish very accurately described by the maitre d' as a cross between swordfish and halibut. It was cooked to perfection and served over a bed of garlic mashed potatoes; a very special dish. For lighter appetites, try one of the personal pizzas served as an appetizer. These are thin-crusted masterpieces that blend traditional cooking methods (there is a spectacular wood-fired pizza oven in clear view of the dining area) and eclectic ingredients that change with the seasons.
The restaurant features an intelligent and reasonably priced wine list of American varietals. Some suggested by-the-glass pairings are made on the menu, but feel free to ask for guidance. There are some cutesy touches that belie the seriousness of the food. The waiters and waitresses, who in all other respects are typical of the young and friendly service for which Florida's better tourist restaurants are known, have been assigned the names of gods and demi-gods from Greek mythology which makes for some odd conversations. "Hi, my name's Aphrodite and I'll be your server today." Tell me more! The restaurant seats 180 with an additional 50 seats outdoors, many of them sheltered by the overhanging volcano. I'd try for an outdoor seat on a balmy night. The restaurant, like most of the park, has been designed with corporate parties in mind. The outdoor area can be closed off for large cocktail receptions; indoors there is a private dining room for up to 60 guests. Reservations are taken (another theme park dining innovation) and, once the word gets out, they will be essential. Islands of Adventure's central reservation number is 407-224-WALK, but try the restaurant's direct line at 407-224-4534 to feel like a regular. Mythos is open from 11 a.m. to park closing and the menu remains the same all day. And after you've finished dining, it's just a short stroll to either the Incredible Hulk or the Dueling Dragons roller coasters. This could be the best meal you'll ever lose! For more on Islands of Adventure visit http://www.theotherorlando.com Didn't find what you were looking for? Try a Google search.
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The
decorative magic is the work of architectural designer Jordan Mozer, a
restaurant wizard who has created spectacular eateries around the world,
including the American Grill at Vegas' Bellagio Hotel and the vast and
trendy Hudson Club in his hometown of Chicago. D?cor like this is a hard
act to follow and you find yourself wondering if the food can raise to
the level of your heightened expectations.
You
probably shouldn't have dessert after one of these filling meals, but
a glance at the display case near the entrance showcasing the pastry chef's
creations will convince you to find room anyway. The kitchen pulls out
all the stops in presentations for these splendiferous tours de force.
The Warm Chocolate Banana Gooey Cake looks like it's about to take off
thanks to a fanciful helicopter-like arrangement of sugared fried banana
strips. It's topped with a small dollop of handmade peanut butter ice
cream, which struck me as an odd addition until I tasted it. Equally spectacular
is the Strawberry Rhubarb Napoleon, a good three or four times the size
of the diminutive pastry from which it takes its name.