SAN JOSE SOJOURN

The small delights of Costa Rica's capital
Part Two

by Kelly Monaghan

(To read Part One, click here.)

The National Theater

Remember Adelina Patti, the opera star who refused to appear in San Jose? Well her grousing paid off. Costa Rica's elite were so embarrassed that they got serious about giving San Jose a theater that would put it on a par with Central America's snootier capitals. The result was the National Theater, which opened in 1897. It's a small gem of a building whose Renaissance facade is graced with busts of Beethoven and Calderon along with the muses of dance and music. It still retains its turn-of-the-century charm, even if the seats are a mite uncomfortable.

The hall itself is a a large gilded horseshoe-shaped space on three levels with a resplendent "presidential box" at the rear. Best of all are the public spaces, so gaudily overdone as to be perfectly delightful. There are murals depicting the idealized heavens and equally idealized coffee plantations. And the formal reception hall upstairs is absolutely amazing. You find it too much of a muchness but, of its kind, it's a masterpiece. Don't miss it.

The best way to see the theater is during a performance. Unfortunately, performances are not all that regular, although we managed to see two during our visit, a disappointing amateur choral recital and a quite enjoyable dance concert. Oddly, the ticket booth is outside, around the building to the left of the main entrance. Seats are cheap, too, US$10 or less. If you can't catch a show, you can pay about US$2.50 for a tour of the building. Off the lobby is a cafe which is a favorite meeting place for locals. It was closed for renovations during our visit, but it comes highly recommended.

Staying in San Jose

I have had great luck booking into the once-grand hotels on the main squares of older cities. They offer a touch of faded luxury on a penny-pincher's budget. Unfortunately, my luck ran out in San Jose. The Gran Hotel Costa Rica is located in the heart of the city, just across from the National Theater and less than a block from the Gold Museum. But while it is a hotel and in Costa Rica, it is far from "gran." At US$53 a night for a double, I felt distinctly overcharged.

Part of the problem is that most of what was once a lobby has been given over to a casino with slots and gaming tables to one side and a sports betting parlor on the other. The joyless crowds who assemble here seem to think loud music is the perfect accompaniment to dwindling bankrolls. The top floor is given over to shabby banquet rooms where special events are celebrated with even louder music. Sandwiched between these two are three floors of rooms which means that you never really escape the noise.

You can get rooms overlooking the square out front and, if you crane your neck a bit, the lovely National Theater. But unless you are an unusually sound sleeper, you'll be awake much of the night. Even in the wee hours, there is the incessant chirping of "walk" signals for the blind, and San Jose grinds noisily to life at about four.

The hotel does have a restaurant, the Grano de Oro, which has a reputation for good food, but I couldn't bring myself to eat there.

We were far happier with the accommodations at Mi Casa, Tu Casa, an anonymous little guesthouse in the quiet Otoya neighborhood, just a short stroll away from the city center. It bills itself as a "backpackers'" spot and the prices (US$9 for a single, $14 for a double) will definitely attract the impecunious young traveler. But don't get the wrong idea. This is no hovel. The six small rooms are spotlessly clean, most with well appointed en-suite baths.

Downstairs is a living room (with cable TV!) and a communal kitchen complete with a microwave. There's also a small washroom where you can do hand laundry and hang it up to dry. Near the entrance is an aviary alive with songbirds. Best of all is the peace and quiet. All rooms are away from the street (which is a cul de sac and devoid of traffic anyway) and we awoke well-rested to the chirping of birds in the abundant greenery outside.

Mi Casa, Ti Casa is owned and operated by Tomas de la Ossa, president of the nearby Central American Institute for International Affairs (ICAI), a language school. The beautiful and mysterious woman I travel with sampled their language classes and pronounced herself quite impressed. ICAI has what sounds to me like a pretty good deal on their language courses. For about US$32 to $35 a day you get four hours of instruction, plus lodging with a San Jose family, two meals, and laundry service.

The place is hard to find if you don't know exactly where it is. Visit their web site at http:www.backpackers.co.cr where you can print out a map to guide you or simply hand it to a taxi driver.

For more information on ICAI's language courses, visit

http://www.educaturs.com/icai/

This article is based on a visit in November of 1999. Prices and other information were accurate as of that date.

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